Textile design has a long history in Banaras, Varanasi, and Kashi. Weavers on silk pit looms create the most beautiful brocades in silk and gold. Varanasi’s weavers are recognized for their brocade weaving skills and they are referred to as Kink abs. There are numerous gorgeous designs in this collection. It’s nearly hard to duplicate or copy the saris due to the loom’s complex design. Time has buried the origins of this ancient art, but the Moghul influence may be observed in the designs, which typically show floral patterns and hunting themes which are Hand Woven and make handwoven products like handmade pashmina shawl, handwoven coasters, handmade unisex stoles etc.
The Pre-Mogul Era
Banaras is well-known around the world for its socioeconomic and religious significance. The town is also known as a Brocade. The weaving industry, which developed during the Vedic period and peaked during the Mogul period, illustrates how weaving was an integral part of the Banaras people’s daily lives. Weaving outperformed all other vocations, whether it was for religious reasons or to provide a living for the populace. From ancient Vedic literature through post-independence India, the textile industry has played an important role. In the handwoven products like handwoven women stoles, handmade pashmina shawl, handmade cushions covers etc the Veaves handwoven products are very famous in banaras.
Since the Rig Vedic era, we have heard about many types of textiles, one of which stands out as the gold cloth (the Hiranya), which the gods wear in their brilliant grandeur as they ride in their majestic chariots. The Hiranya fabric has often been viewed as the forerunner of today’s zari work or kimkhab (brocades). The needlework is also mentioned specifically in the Vedic texts.
HISTORY
During Buddha’s lifetime, Varanasi, a spiritual city and a weaving centre, prospered as the capital of the Kasi Kingdom. According to Sutras9, when Prince Siddharth became a bonze, he removed his sumptuous silk courtly state of Kasi gown. Then replaced it with an earth-cikiyred robe known as the kasayani vastrani. Clothes authorised to bonze in those days were fashioned from waste silk fibres from wild silkworms, referred to as “bark fibre” textiles at the time, and hemp people. There’s also a narrative in the Sutra about a person who converts to Buddhism after presenting a gift to Buddha of cloths sewn with gold threads.
The Kasi Kingdom is described in the “Jataka” as a major hub for cotton and silk production in the 5th or 6th centuries B. C. Kasi cotton textiles were finely woven, silky, and bleached totally white, with delicate and soft fibres. According to legend, after Buddha died, his bones were cleaned with balm and wrapped with new Kasi cotton linens. (Indian textile art, Kokyo Hatanaka Collection, page 361). The Buddhist jatakas (3rd–2nd B.C.) are a gold mine of material on living in ancient India, according to Richard Lanmoy in his book “Banaras viewed from within.” Banaras was a cotton-growing region known for generating delicate, soft-textured thread, according to legend. Silk and wool were both well-known throughout the town.
Period of the Moguls
The Banaras weaving industry peaked during the Imperial period, due to the support of mogul emperors like Akbar, according to historical records. We begin to propose an unbroken description of zari work and brocades via Mughal and Rajasthani artwork from the Akbar period onwards. It’s important to note that the old designs abruptly ended in the sixteenth century; we can see from contemporary paintings that wholesale-personalized themes were introduced, but they were adapted to the Indian taste. Floral arrangements received more attention. Persian themes, for example, owe their existence to the influence and significance of Persian masters in Emperor Akbar’s court. Ghias Naqshaband being the greatest Persian master to the royal atelier of Akbar.
The Post-Mogul Era
The first well-documented account of Banaras zari and brocades was provided by many British travellers to Banaras under British control in India. Viscount George Valentia provided some fascinating information on Banaras textiles in the early nineteenth century in his tour narrative. Valentia hosted a Durbar in Banaras, and several textile dealers came, displaying some beautiful zari and brocade examples. According to Valentia, the brocades had tight designs and were extremely costly, so they were only worn on special occasions.
Valentia was correct in observing that the Banaras people’s wealth was based mostly on the manufacturing. Trading of brocades and zari were popular export commodities to Europe. Valentia’s outline not only revealed the historical presence of Banaras’ silk industry. Also how the textiles business affected people’s socio-economic aspects during that time (Voyage and travels of Lord Valentia Part – I, London 1811). The presence and importance of the Banaras silk industry in current history is abundantly demonstrated by historical data from the post-Mogul period.
Mrs Colin Masckenzie who was a visitor to visit Banaras in 1847 A.D., gives some fascinating details regarding zari and brocade fabrics. An Indian royal who came to their celebration wore “large pants of gold cloth” or brocade, she said. This appears to be highly popular with Banaras’ gentry. As evidenced by her subsequent report as well as surviving samples from the time period.
WEAVING HUB
The Banaras brocade weaving is cluster oriented and found throughout the Banaras district and a few neighbouring areas. The city of Banaras is the primary weaving hub. the utmost weavers of the merchandise belong to the town only. Yet the opposite production centers of the districts can’t be over looked thus far because the production and therefore the employment cares . Varanasi, , Mirzapur, Azamgarh, Sant Ravidas Nagar, Chunar, Chandoli, and Chakia are the most important brocade weaving centres.
With such a powerful history related to the town and its weaving skills. It is not surprise that the talents and talent has been inherited by generations. With the Indian government taking more steps towards promotion of handloom crafts. Therefore the new found interest and appreciation for the merchandise among this generation. We will anticipate to feature more to the already glorious history of the town and its craft.
